Mt. Desert Island

On September 5, 1604, history tells us that the French explorer Samuel de Champlain ran aground off Otter Point just off a coastal island off what is now the State of Maine and wrote in his journal, "The mountain summits are all bare and rocky....I name it l'Isles des Monts-deserts". Though the island had long been inhabited by the Wabanakis, for the next century and a half the island was claimed by both the French and the English. In 1759, the British prevailed over the French and Mount Desert Island became part of England's holdings in the new world. As settlers moved north from Massachusetts to colonize the region, they first settled in Southwest Harbor on the western side of the island because of its easy access to the sailing routes. However, the better soil on the eastern side of the island eventually drew more settlers there and Eden, later known as Bar Harbor was incorporated in 1796.

Mount Desert Island with its 108 square miles is the third largest island on the United States' eastern seaboard. Champlain's description of the island aside, there now is a thick covering of both deciduous and coniferous trees, many freshwater streams, ponds, and lakes, and the only fjord, Somes Sound, on the east coast of North America. There are 17 mountain peaks on the island including Cadillac Mountain which is the highest point on the eastern seaboard north of Rio de Janiero.

Some 100,000 years ago the last glacier advanced out of Canada leaving its mark on the island. As it crept across Maine is dug out lakes, reshaped mountains, and left behind large rocks called erratics that it had carried from some far away place. These large boulders can be seen perched atop the islands peaks and at least one, Bubble Rock, has become a landmark and visitor attraction.

By the mid-1800's the island had become somewhat of a draw for artists because of the the beautiful scenery. Distinguished landscape artists such as Frederic Church and Thomas Cole took their works depicting unspoiled wilderness back to their patrons in New York and Philadelphia who started to travel to the island to see the island for themselves. Following these early tourists to the island were journalists, writers, scientists, and sportsmen, and before long there were 30 hotels in Bar Harbor and a summer resort was born.

Soon some of America's most socially prominent families, the Rockefellers, Morgans, Astors, Vanderbilts, and Pulitzers were summering in Bar Harbor, Seal Harbor, and Northeast Harbor. They built summer "cottages", entertained lavishly, and altered the rustic nature of the island forever. However, they also left a legacy for future generations to enjoy the natural beauty of the island when in 1901 they established a land preservation trust which eventually became Acadia National Park. Acadia is the first national park that was created solely by the land donations of private citizens. Three men, Charles W. Eliot, George B. Dorr, and John D. Rockefeller are given the primary credit for creating the land trust and establishing the park.

Comprised of some 40,000 plus acres Acadia is one of the most visited parks in the system and the only national park in New England. Today the park includes about two-fifths of Mount Desert Island, part of the Schoodic Peninsula, and Isle au Haut. Acadia is one of the most accessible with its 120 miles of hiking trails, 50 miles of groomed carriage roads, and the 27 mile Park Loop road featuring many of its now famous attractions such as Thunder Hole, Sand Beach, and the Bubbles at Jordan Pond. You can even drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain to be the first in the U.S. to see the sunrise that day. For those wishing to leave the driving to someone else while visiting Mount Desert Island there is a free island wide shuttle service, Island Explorer, serving all of the towns on the island and Acadia National Park.

The island is a natural wonderland boasting more than 80 species of land and marine mammals, reptiles and amphibians from white-tailed deer to harbor seals. There are more than 250 species of sea, shore and land birds including more than 20 species of warblers alone. Its intertidal zone is abundant with marine life living in the island's twice daily tides rising and falling between 10-12 feet.

In the fall of 1947 tragedy struck the island when fire broke out. The fire burned for 10 days and consumed 17,000 acres. The fire swept through Bar Harbor's summer colony destroying more than 60 of the summer cottages. The devastation of the 1947 fire brought a close to the resort era as it had existed for almost 100 years.

The eastern half of the island is the most populated and is home to Bar Harbor and Northeast Harbor. On the western side of the island are the towns and villages of Southwest Harbor, Tremont, Bernard, Bass Harbor, Manset, Seawall and Somesville. Bar Harbor is the largest town on the island (population 4500) and is home to College of the Atlantic and the leading genetics research center, Jackson Laboratory. There are many inns, hotels, B&B's, eateries, shops, galleries, museums, and outfitters available for visitors to enjoy.

Northeast Harbor located at the eastern side of Somes Sound entrance is a thriving summer colony with many stately homes. The town is on a protected deepwater port so is home to many boats bobbing in the harbor. Both the Thuya Gardens and Asticou Gardens are in Northeast Harbor and offer visitors a quiet retreat. Shop on Main Street or head to the town pier and catch the mailboat to the Cranberry Islands where life has not changed much in 100 years.

Southwest Harbor is the island's largest fishing town and looks out from the western mouth of Somes Sound. The second largest town on the island it is ranked as one of the top 10 commercial fishing harbors in Maine. Southwest Harbor is a center of boatbuilding with some of the nation's largest and most meticulously constructed sailboats, power boats and fishing boats made here. It is also home to the Wendell Gilley Musuem which exhibits more than 200 bird carvings.

Tremont takes its name from the French trois and mont which describes the three mountains seen from the town. This town more than any of the others depends on the fishing industry. Lobstering is the primary industry but scalloping, and clam digging are also done.

Somesville is the island's oldest settlement and a collection of pristine white clapboard houses with black shutters. Photograph the picturesque footbridge in front of the historical society.

In Bass Harbor walk up to one of the most photographed lighthouses on the coast and the only one actually on Mount Desert Island.

On Mount Desert Island enjoy the diversity of a busy towns with their wide range of restaurants, shops & galleries, music & art festivals and community celebrations. Go whale watching or cruise the harbors looking for eagles, ospreys or seals. Get active with hiking, kayaking, canoeing, sailing, or just sit in a park and watch the world go by.

The gateway to the island is Trenton which links Ellsworth and Mount Desert Island via Route 3. Trenton marks the beginning of the All American Road Acadia Byway with beautiful vistas as you cross the causeway. The Acadia Byway continues down Route 3 and onto the Park Loop Road. Trenton is home to the county's only airport which in the summer is a very busy place. Also in Trenton you can visit a zoo, take in the Maine Lumberjack show, play golf (mini or 18 holes), sample a variety of attractions and shopping. You can also have lobster at a roadside lobster pound, take a glider ride or buy your Christmas decorations. Just before leaving Trenton and driving onto the island is Thompson Island and the Thompson Island Acadia National Park Information Center.